There’s a lot of confusion surrounding the Seagull 1963.
Which version is the real Seagull 1963?
Who actually designed it — and what roles did Red Star and the Tianjin Watch Factory play?
This post breaks it down chronologically, so you can finally understand how a military tool from 1963 turned into one of the most talked-about chronographs in the world.
🇨🇳 1955: It Begins with a Need, Not a Brand
In 1955, the Chinese government needed a reliable chronograph for its military — especially for Air Force pilots.
To make that happen, it founded the Tianjin Watch Factory, and gave it a clear mission: acquire the tooling and patent rights for the Swiss Venus 175 chronograph movement.
That Swiss movement would become the basis for what’s now known as the ST19 series. But at this stage, Tianjin only produced movements — not full watches, and definitely not commercial products.
🚁️ 1961–1963: Project D304 — A Government Chronograph
By the early 1960s, the Air Force’s request had turned into a formal military project: D304. This wasn’t created by a brand or a watch designer.
It was developed by the Ministry of Light Industry, a government agency tasked with producing a military chronograph.
Tianjin Watch Factory provided the technical expertise and movement production. A small number of watches were built for Air Force pilots.
They were never sold to civilians — these were tools, not consumer products.
🔧 1963–1999: A Quiet Legacy
After the D304 prototype was delivered, it quietly faded into obscurity.
The Tianjin Watch Factory kept refining the ST19 movement for other purposes, but the original chronograph design was largely forgotten — except by a handful of collectors.
Over time, the factory grew into one of the largest mechanical movement producers in the world.
🔄 ~2000: The Collector Revival — Red Star Brings Back the 1963 Chronograph
In the early 2000s, a watch enthusiast named Thomas, working at the Hong Kong branch of Tianjin Watch Factory (which focused on exporting movements), noticed a D304 prototype on the wrist of a senior colleague.
Fascinated, he decided to recreate it.
Using original archive materials and the authentic ST1901 movement (a direct descendant of the Venus 175), Thomas designed a faithful civilian version of the D304 chronograph.
He released it under the Red Star name and shared it on forums like Watchuseek, where it quickly captured the interest of vintage chronograph lovers.
For the first time, the public could buy a watch based on the military original.
🧠 The Community Invents the Name
Interestingly, the name “Seagull 1963” didn’t come from a brand — it came from collectors.
Here’s why it stuck:
- The watch used a Tianjin-made movement, and the factory was later rebranded as Sea-Gull
- The design paid tribute to a 1963 military chronograph
- The name “Red Star” wasn’t well known outside China, but “Seagull” was more familiar in the West
Over time, “Seagull 1963” became the universal shorthand for any modern watch inspired by the D304 — especially those using the ST19 movement.
🧹 A Brand That Became a Group
In 1997, the Sea-Gull Group was officially incorporated — not as a single company, but as a network of over 20 different entities, including:
- 16 manufacturers
- 4 joint ventures
Some of these were operating under license agreements, such as Tianjin Watch Factory, Sea-Gull Hong Kong, and Sea-Gull Singapore.
This structure explains why there are multiple modern “Seagull 1963” watches on the market — made by different factories, some under Red Star, some under Sea-Gull branding, and others using the same genuine ST19 movement.
Not all are identical in quality or accuracy — but many trace their roots back to the same story.
❓ So What’s the Real Seagull 1963?
The truth: every modern version — whether it says Red Star, Sea-Gull, or nothing at all — is a tribute to a watch that was never commercialized in the first place.
It’s just like the story of field watches.
In the 1960s, the U.S. military issued a specification (MIL-W-46374) and contracted brands like Hamilton and Benrus to build them. These brands didn’t invent the design — the government did.
Yet today, Hamilton field watches are considered icons of that look.
Same with the Seagull 1963.
It wasn’t a brand’s invention. It was a state-commissioned military tool, made with a purpose — and remade with passion by collectors like Thomas.
The “real” Seagull 1963 is the one that stays true to that history — using genuine ST19 movements, a faithful design, and a respectful nod to the original D304.
❤️ Our Role at Seagull1963.com
We’re not here to rewrite history. We’re here to respect it.
We proudly continue Thomas’ revival — using authentic ST1901 movements from our trusted partner at Tianjin Watch Factory. Every Seagull 1963 we offer follows the same philosophy:
no made-up stories, no fake heritage, no inflated claims.
Just a great watch, with a real history — and the most authentic Seagull 1963 you can get.
👉 Explore the Seagull 1963 Collection
🧠 Frequently Asked Questions
❓ What is the original Seagull 1963?
The original “Seagull 1963” refers to a Chinese military chronograph prototype (Project D304) developed in the early 1960s by the Ministry of Light Industry, using a movement built by the Tianjin Watch Factory. It was never sold commercially and was made for Air Force pilots — not a brand creation.
❓ Is the Red Star Seagull 1963 real or fake?
Red Star watches made with the ST1901 movement are among the most faithful tributes to the original military design. The first civilian version of the 1963 prototype was revived by Thomas under the Red Star name in the early 2000s, using archive references and authentic movements.
❓ Is Sea-Gull the same as Tianjin Watch Factory?
Yes. Sea-Gull is the international brand name of the Tianjin Watch Factory. The factory was founded in 1955 and became Sea-Gull later as it began exporting movements and watches globally.
❓ What is the ST1901 movement?
The ST1901 is a hand-wound mechanical chronograph movement made by Tianjin Watch Factory. It's a modernized version of the Venus 175 movement from Switzerland, and it's used in many modern Seagull 1963 tribute watches.
❓ How can I tell if a Seagull 1963 is authentic?
Check that it uses a genuine ST19-series movement, preferably the ST1901. Look for historical accuracy in the dial layout, case size, and case back. Also, avoid overly cheap imitations with quartz movements or incorrectly labeled designs. Buying from trusted sources like Seagull1963.com ensures authenticity.
❓ Are all Seagull 1963 watches the same?
No. Some are made by Red Star, some by Sea-Gull, and others by smaller microbrands or factories using similar parts. The key is the movement (ST19) and whether the design stays true to the D304 prototype. Not all Seagull 1963s are built to the same standards.
